Maido - in Lima's Miraflores neighborhood - is the best restaurant in the world. This was decreed by the jury of the World's 50 Best Restaurants, the ranking that has been charting the direction of contemporary cuisine since 2002, drawing a veritable global map of the most interesting and innovative tables. Maido won by moving up from fifth place last year, thanks to its dazzling expression of Nikkei cuisine. Italy can count on six restaurants in the rankings: Lido 84 in Gardone Riviera (the highest, 16th), Reale in Castel di Sangro (18th), Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler in Brunico (20th, with a leap forward of a whopping 32 positions since 2024), Le Calandre in Rubano (which re-enters in 31st place), Piazza Duomo in Alba (32) and Uliassi in Senigallia (43). Note that unlike in other countries, which are well represented in the rankings with their capital cities, the six Italian restaurants are all located in small or very small towns. There is no sign of the big cities - Rome, Milan, Florence, Venice or Naples. In short, great Italian cuisine is decidedly provincial.