Squeezed between the Ligurian coast and the slopes of Mount Ursino, Noli is one of those villages that seem sewn up between the blue sea and the memory of ancient maritime republics. Located in the province of Savona, between Spotorno and Varigotti, it proudly preserves its medieval origins, also recognized by its inclusion among Italy's Most Beautiful Villages. A walk through its streets, caruggi, towers and fortifications is a journey back in time, but also a perfect opportunity to discover views and flavors of the Riviera di Ponente. You enter the village through Porta Piazza, an ancient gateway on the sea side, and immediately find yourself enveloped in the intimate atmosphere of the historic center. The Loggia Nolese, the Palazzo Comunale, and the stone towers that dot the center - such as the Torre del Comune or that of San Giovanni (which hangs slightly toward the sea) - tell of a past rich in autonomy and prestige. The caseforti, or strongholds with their local green stone plinths and raised portals, reveal a time when dwellings were also bastions of defense. Among the most charming places in the center is Casa Pagliano, a refined medieval mansion with three-mullioned and mullioned windows, next to the remains of the Portello Fort, once guarding the harbor. Not far away, the Rione Burgu houses the Oratorio di Sant'Anna, a Baroque building with 18th-century decorations, where processional crosses carried on religious festivals are still preserved. From Piazza Chiappella begins one of the most evocative experiences: the ascent to Monte Ursino Castle, which dominates Noli from above and offers spectacular views of the gulf and the islet of Bergeggi. The hike takes about 25 minutes on foot and follows part of the Liguria Trail and the Coast Path. Along the way, you will encounter the Papona Tower and the Church of Nostra Signora delle Grazie as you pass through typical Mediterranean vegetation, with terraces and ancient residential remains. Back in the historic center, it is worth stopping at the Church of San Francesco, dating from the 13th century and enriched in the 17th century. The interior preserves tombstones, a wooden crucifix and ancient frescoes. Not far away is one of the village's true treasures: the Church of San Paragorio, of Proto-Romanesque origin and now a national monument. Although not always visitable, the exterior and the archaeological area with medieval sarcophagi and the necropolis discovered during excavations in 1972 are worth a careful visit. After the walk through the alleys and walls, there is nothing better than a break in the restaurants and osterias overlooking the sea or hidden among the alleys, where you can enjoy typical Ligurian dishes such as cappon magro, stuffed anchovies, or focaccia di Recco, accompanied by a glass of Pigato or Vermentino from the nearby hills.
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