Apr. 7 – Zemu is one of the wildest places of the Himalayas, admired and mythologized by the first British and German explorers who attempted to explore it between the late 19th century and early 20th century. But a new chapter is about to begin for Zemu, in Kanchenzonga (Kangchenjunga 8586m): on April 12 the first modern mission approaching the mountain from the south will begin. K2014.it will receive, in the coming days, the patronage of the Italian Alpine Club; and will be led by Alberto Peruffo of Cai Montecchio Maggiore (Vicenza). "From Zemu hill - says a note from Cai - begins Zemu Ridge, the South-East ridge that leads to the South Summit of 8476 meters through Kanchenzonga, the geographically mysterious Eastern Peak. Zemu Peak is 7780 meters high and is the last peak to be climbed in the large Himalayan glacier. The Kanchenzonga is the third mountain on Earth for altitude, dominating the subtropical forests up to Gangtok, capital of Sikkim, an ancient Tibetan kingdom, since 1975 part of the Federal State of India. "According to the organizers, it is a cultural and exploratory expedition that will explore virtually unknown and never documented places. The participants will film and photograph their experience. "In addition to the Zemu peak and ridge, originating in the Tonghsiong Glacier, - said Cai - the expedition will study the south to north connecting Goecha-La with the Zemu Glacier. This could result in the extraordinary closure of the Kangchenjunga Round, that is: the complete circumnavigation of the massif, first attempted in 1899 by DW Freshfield (executive president of the Alpine Club and the Royal Geographical Society), who was accompanied by great Italian photographer Vittorio Sella, who during that climb left to posterity some of his most memorable photographs. The 19th century explorers had to stop at Goecha -La, as they were unable to access the hidden and difficult Tonghsiong Glacier." The expedition will also strive to enhance the cultural and ethnographic research carried out by another great Italian pioneer, Fosco Maraini, who in 1937 reached Sikkim and the Zemu Glacier in a solitary journey after leaving behind Giuseppe Tucci’s sixth ethnographic expedition in Tibet. Maraini was known to be a great traveler, anthropologist and mountaineer; he was an honorary Cai member and among the most important Italian personalities of the time.

THE TEAM

This team consists of: Alberto Peruffo (Cai Montecchio, project leader), Anindya Mukherjee (Indian explorer, first to reach Zemu from the south), Cesar Rosales Chinchay (Peruvian mountain guide, head of the Escuela de Guías Don Bosco 6000 en los Andes di Marcarà), Francesco Canale (guide for the Collegio Veneto, and one of the most prepared young Italian alpine guides), Davide Ferro (mid-mountain guide, manager of the mountain refuge Campogrosso), Andrea Tonin (climber and guide, former president of Cai Valdagno), Enrico Ferri (mountaineer and former Rescue stationmaster and professional photographer for Cai Rieti). The expedition is under the patronage of the Cai National Bureau, Cai Montecchio, Cai Rieti, the Lazio Regional Council, the Veneto Regional Board of Alpine Guides, Fondazione Sella, and Mountain Wilderness.